
I’m not sure where to begin, what to say or what to hold back. After finding my way through customs I find a man in a crowd of people, Carlos, holding a single piece of paper with the words written, “Bree Wee” on it. He grabs my over sized luggage, the very one I paid an overweight fee just so I could take from all the unneeded “stuff” I have in Hawaii and give to those with less here in Nicaragua. He opens the back door as he is the driver and me the passenger. I’ve learned that life is better lived in the front row. A lot like school, those hiding from the action sit in the back. No longer in high school, I want the front seat these days.
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The drive from Managua to San Juan Del Sur was certainly worth the view. The first town we drive through has me holding back tears. You can see into the homes and the view is simple. The homes are concrete walls, a single room with mats or a blanket on the floor. Most look like a few families share each home. Within the walls were maybe a foto or two hanging, a shelf with a single book or flower vase, a chair, and I didn’t see much else. The tears continued to make their way from my heart to my face. As we drove further into the towns I discovered everyone smiling, laughing, holding hands in the street. There was conversation and life. Perhaps when you have nothing to lose you have everything you need, these people were happy. More happy than a lot of people I know whom have everything the world can offer.
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Carlos is now driving like he is on a mission, we are reaching kilometers that make me thankful to have on a seatbelt. I’m hoping and praying the entire time that the men and women walking the streets stay off the road. Unshockingly, everyone drives like Carlos. The 2 lane highway, the paved sections and rocky parts, are also home to the horses and dogs we nearly collide with. Half way to San Juan Del Sur we stop for a drink. The rule here is not to give any begging children money. You can give them food, water, clothes, toys, just not money. Giving money is likely to be supporting a “habit”. Drugs, cigaretes, who knows.
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A young boy, maybe 7 years old taps on my window as I wait for Carlos in the market. He wants some change. Looking into his eyes I want to give him some, not knowing why he wants it and knowing I shouldn’t, I tell him, “sorry” or “lo siento”. He presses his young, innocent face to my window with tears rolling down his cheeks, as if to say, “please help”. My head shakes no. It’s the worst “no” I ever said. Away he walks and I watch him in the market. He comes out of the market, pulls out a small handful of coins, counts them, then puts them back into his pocket with disappointment, it perhaps was not enough. As he walks past the vehicle I call him over. At this moment all my motherly instincts take over, his eyes are brown, but all I see is Kainoa’s ocean blue eyes. At that moment, in that breath my heart told me to give him money. The young boy stared at me helplessly. I grabbed his little hand and put money into it then told him to tell nobody and get away before I was busted for giving him money. Im not sure what the boy will use the money for, Im hoping for food.
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The ride got more exciting with its twists and turns. What came next my seat belt could not have prepared me for. We get to a small town and it looks as if the entire population is on the street. They stand looking at a man, laying dead in the road. He had been hit by a speeding car on his walk home only minutes before we arrived. The town was there to identify who’s dad, brother, son, husband he was. Seeing the blood just pouring out of his lifeless body next to the car that hit him, I lost it completely and emotionally. Nicaragua has already tossed at me more than I was prepared for.
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2 hours later we arrive at my families. Everyone is smiling and happy. The home is simple, peaceful. Part of me feels so lonely, I already miss Kainoa. Now thinking in Spanish with so much to say I am at a loss for words. Everyday speech comes easy, but emotions I can only express in English. Finally to my pillow, I make myself a promise, that I will learn all I can, the Spanish, the culture, to embrace the simplicity of this life, and to discover whatever it is that Nicaragua can teach me.
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At 4am I awake to drums outside my window. The children of Nicaragua are marching to the church. All of December they celebrate the life God gave them by walking at 4am to arrive to church by 5am. Their singing and drums wake me from slumber. I try to fall back asleep, however I keep waking with a loneliness for Kainoa and all the thoughts of the homes we passed, the home I am in, and the man laying dead in the street. I decide to just stay awake and put all my thoughts on paper.
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The sun finally comes alive and my hour run is calling my name. The streets are full of women sweeping their dirt floors, men saddling up horses, children running after dogs, and vendors selling fruits, veggies, and meat on sticks. I find the beach and run on it till the very end. From there I see a foot bridge. Over the bridge is a trail that I take until a few stray dogs scare me to turn back. Most the dogs I passed were only curious, these were more like vicious dogs and I wasn’t in the mood for rabies. The run felt so good, the perfect way to clear my mind and calm my shaken heart.
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Back home Vanessa, (my Nicaraguan mom), is making breakfast. Gallo pinto it is. Fully immersed in Spanish with all those around the table. I’m reminded why I’m here. A couple of the students, neighbors, from school are heading to Maderas to surf. Already, day one, I was going surfing. The adventures have begun sooner than imagined. From horses in the streets, monkeys, and cows in the front yard, to the beach we went.
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The first paddle into the Pacific had my heart fully awake, surfing always does that to me. This was never intended to be a surf trip, I didn’t even bring a board. Borrowing a board I am now free under the waves and into the wild blue ocean. Everything finally goes calm. For being such a tranquil place there is too much happening within me to find peace. The ocean finally gives me the breathing room I need. This surf is my swim for the day...
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I’m now sitting at sunset in an internet café. Using the restroom is 5 Cordobas or 25 cents. There is more pineapple in my belly then imaginable, and everything smells like chicken. Tomorrow starts school and rumor from the other students is that I am in class alone. Just me and the teacher, no place to hide, totally exposed. This trip truly is front row seating only.



Muchos abrazos desde Nicaragua, and sorry, I have no spell check on this computer...
Bree
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