Friday, September 17, 2010

Looking Back I'm Laughing, Just a Little...

I'm going to tell you all a little story. Here put this song on while you read (Live everyday). In my ideal ocean world the waves would always be about head high, maybe a little bigger or a little smaller depending on beach or reef break. My board would be short, like 5'11 or 6' (like above photo). It would not be long because truthfully, I've always been nervous around long boards as I really think you have to be ultra strong to turn them and get them under waves or turtle roll them. Me, I like to duck dive under white wash and have some control over my board. However, all things ocean I LOVE. That means, when the ocean calls you answer with whatever you got...swim, surf, paddle, snorkel, free dive, cave dive, rock carry, you get the idea...all things ocean :)
One thing I have never done, maybe the only thing I have never done in the ocean, is tandem surf with a strong guy. I REALLY want too, what girl doesn't!? It's super popular when the surf is small, mostly with keiki (children) and their parents. One day I'm bound and determined to tandem, Ill be sure to get a photo, perhaps it will be my POST-Ironman day in the sun!
However.... I have tandem paddled with some of the girls...we mostly end up laughing and falling into the ocean without a care in the world. Other times we get silly and just well, as the story goes, "girls just wanna have fun" and we have heaps of fun...

When we are lucky we just fall into the water, get some water up our nose, choke on salty ocean as we laugh till it hurts. It's all good, and as they say, "What happens in Hawaii stays in Hawaii".
Other than tandem paddling, us girls try to tandem surf. (I don't know who those chicks are) I just borrowed the photo because we don't have any good photos of us tandemining. Anyways, its so much fun, as in the only time I really like to be on a long board. We walk the nose, spin around, try to walk backwards, go for hand stands, just laugh in the sun to sum it up...
This was on my little Maui trip... yes, all sorts of fun. It's not like I was looking for trouble on this day. Perhaps with the World Champs coming up I should have been more careful. I'm more sorry about it all than anyone, however, I have no regrets because I don't live life with any. I am someone who truly embraces life and perhaps sometimes gets a bit close to the edge and when the time to jump happens I hope I fly or that I'll be caught in the hand of someone. I just don't think it's safe to spend life in a state of worry, because I never want to be 80 and wishing I was able to play but too old to move...
So we did all the long board tricks n' tandem stuff wishing it was big (I truly feel way safer in bigger surf with a small board than small waves with a big board), but like I said, the ocean calls and we find something to do in it. Wave, after wave, after wave, for a couple hours things were sunshiney and happy. Then it felt a little dark on a bright day.
Really I don't even remember much about the fall, just being thankful I can swim because I could not breathe, at all. It was as if my body was so familiar with the ocean and how to move in it and get under waves and remain calm that despite not breathing everything sort of all made sense. And then I never wanted to talk about or think about those few moments again. I just grabbed hold of my rib cage area and hoped not to feel any bones or see blood, because I knew I was messed up, but didn't know the extent of it and just crossed my fingers it would shake off in a few minutes.
A few hours later and still gasping for a good breath and loosing my calm since I could hardly move my right side I did the most ridiculous thing any girl with a college education and some common sense maybe should have avoided. Sitting on the edge of a cliff looking across to Lanai and Molokai in the distance I felt a peace and even some calm set in, maybe because I was so in love with the beauty surrounding me. So after watching all my friends jump the cliff I decided to grab my right side with the left arm and hold my arms in close and jump. Well, I guess when you are pretty high above the ocean the arms spread out like wings and that is where the mess of my breathing and the ribs soon made some muscles go mad too...nice landing to say the least...and just to make sure you get the entire story Ive avoided sharing with anyone other than coach and friends I knew would only laugh with me not at me, I then tried to climb out of the ocean up the rocks, yes, pulling myself up. OUCH.
That is when I landed myself the next day in the doctors office for x-rays and discovered all the reasons I could not move the right side or breathe, that is why I could not swim and landed in lane 8 of my swim team.
However, without regrets and determination to get-well-soon I have woke up everyday smelling of noni, ginger, and sea salt (don't ask, it was one of my MANY Hawaiian remedies given to me by some Hawaiian friends that have a cure for all things that happen playing on the island). And this morning, I was back in the pool in hopes of swimming not floating after nearly 2 weeks of the worst pain and minimal breathing. After coach Steve changed my entire stroke to make the right side do nothing but drop, protect my ribs, and the left side swim double, I went from lane 5, to lane 4, to leading lane 3. It was amazing... I could feel the water again! For someone who lives life all by the feel of water it was THE BEST feel of the week, of the past 2 weeks! Tears flowed. Yes, it still hurts but not as bad and I am still clinging to my goal of making it back to lane 1 before Ironman. I have no idea how much of this injury will be with me on race day and the effects it will have on the swim, bike, or run, all I know is that I can swim again and that means I will race Ironman...
Okay, do not try that at home. Well, jump cliffs, surf, and tandem with your friends if you enjoy adventures, but hold your ribs :) And like one of the theme songs I have for my life, "live everyday" by Big Island boy Ryan Hiraoka, tomorrow is never promised so live everyday...


Blogger Furacán said...

I never surf but now i wan't a tandem surf with girls like the pics :-D
It's a paradise!

September 18, 2010 at 3:31 AM

Blogger t-odd said...

Oh, Bree. I'm always only laughing with you. At least you were doing something fun when you got hurt. It's all about the stories anyway. I still think you're going to surprise yourself on race day.

Keep breathing deeply!

September 18, 2010 at 10:11 AM

Blogger Nitsirk said...

You have the best attitude. I thought of you while I was racing today. You helped me get my negative thoughts out of my head. Thanks! Our ocean was a tad colder- 58 degrees and the air was about the same at the start :)

September 18, 2010 at 11:05 AM

Blogger Damie said...

OMG- I was waiting for the story to pop out, Bree. I am glad you are swimming again. Of course, no time is a good time when you are a pro athlete to do the fun things, so just keep being you and enjoy life when you can. No regrets! xxxxooooo:)))))))))

September 18, 2010 at 11:20 AM

Blogger Dawn said...

Love reading about your adventures, and how you are always just "living" your life to the fullest. Glad to hear you are feeling a little better! I am doing the Chicago marathon on your Ironman Champ day... today was my 20 miler before I taper... thought of you and all your training on my last mile and it made me dig deeper! ;) Thanks for inspiring me... and reminding us to keep dreaming like we did when we were kids! How fun!! Happy healing over there! :)

September 18, 2010 at 11:47 AM

Blogger Sue said...

oh i want to comment but shouldnt cause then the whole world would know might know a certain 14 yr old was sure you got hurt by having shhh the s word with a boy in all the wrong positions:) which to her is under the sea and a dolphin came by and created more waves and more problems...but then she is not really aware of the whole s thing anyway & only wants to be kissed..someday somewhere...maybe in kona:) xxoo

September 18, 2010 at 7:46 PM

Blogger Jill Costantino said...

So glad that you are on the mend AND able to do IM woohoo! I have only tandum waterskied and it is SOOOO much FUN! Something totally worth trying oneday (after IM though). Cheers to livin EVERYDAY to the FULLEST!

September 20, 2010 at 12:34 PM

Blogger Jill Costantino said...

p.s. I can't wait to come and surf with you someday - of course I will have to learn first:)

September 20, 2010 at 12:36 PM

Blogger Big Daddy Diesel said...

How fun!!! I need to incorporate fun in my recovery.

September 21, 2010 at 11:24 AM

Blogger Whitney said...

Keep up the recovery! You are one tough chica!

September 22, 2010 at 4:51 PM

Blogger Amy said...

Great post there, I like your post it is so interesting. Keep up the good post.


September 22, 2010 at 9:18 PM


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