Friday, December 5, 2008

It really was big...BIG fun!


The surf reports called for 8-12ft... sometimes they are right...other times wrong... today they weren't flakin'! Called Brooke to surf with me, she noticed only a handful of guys out and said, "Bree, seriously, everyone is on the beach, it might be too big." I told her she has to paddle out with me, PLEASE!

So we did. Poor thing lost her bottoms a few times, had the boys trying to help her into waves, and pretty much wished she never listened to me (but that's what sisters are for). Oh, I took a few waves on the head and wished surfing had a medical tent, BUT it was so worth the wipe outs!!

There is nothing like the feeling of being in the ocean with water so powerful it takes your breath away. Paddling out into massive walls of water, ducking through them and being spit out on the other side, then waiting... waiting... waiting to drop into a wave. Finally riding is so freeing...


Tomorrow calls for similar conditions. And of course Brooke will get that phone call bright and early. These photos my friend Randy took (he is one of the best photographers on the Big Island- thanks for letting me use them randy!!). After my surf I went home to grab my camera, I got back to the beach just in time for sunset... and a romantic evening at the beach with just the waves...



16 comments:

Bruce said...

When are you heading out to the North Shore (of Oahu)? Have fun and be safe.

Jen said...

Wow, what amazing pictures! I like yours and your friend's pics.
You are brave! Sounds like so much fun! Hope you have fun today too...be safe, chica!

Melissa said...

Wow, those are some huge waves! You are really out there surfing in them? That's so amazing.

Speed Racer said...

Wow, lost her bottoms?! That's exactly what would happen to me as I simultaneously was eaten by a shark, dashed against the rocks, and got pulled under by a sea monster. You are both so brave!

beth said...

wow bree, you are brave brave brave....sounds like you had a blast...how many days until CR? i bet you're ready!!!

Jewell said...

Lucky! From a poor So. Cal man missing the waves!

FA said...

Wow. It looks like it was a great day. I'm sure you were chargin' 'em. Even better that the wave breaks left and right.

rr said...

Looks like so much fun! I remember being out in double overhead scared shitless losing my bottoms back in college.. SO fun. Now I am a wussy mom, I get too scared!!!

Steve Stenzel said...

That sounds CRAZY!! Hope you guys had fun!!

Why can't triathlons be a sport where more women lose their bottoms? Ah, who am I kidding - I'm more of a "top" guy.

I've said too much...

Moving on...

Kathleen @ ForgingAhead said...

O. M. G. Crazy girl! You are truly fearless. Looks like it was an absolutely amazing day!!

MJ said...

Holy crap! You're brave.... I'd be with the others on the beach. Actually wish I was....

Charisa said...

Awesome pics - thanks! :)

X-Country2 said...

I watched Blue Crush today, and it amazes me that real people actually do that. I kind of want your life. :o)

Shawn and Tracy said...

If you ever want to ride white water I am your girl....You are amazing Bree!
Tracy

Jenna said...

yeah you are BRAVE. I with the other one eho commented about being eaten by sharks...i am a clumsy chick and when i tried boogie bording once i ended up totally exfoliated three layers too deep from hitting the beach - not to mention the liner of the swim suit that takes on handfuls of sand and makes it look like I have done my business in my swimmers...lol

Bob Mitera said...

While you were surfing...we are freezing. I totally need to move somewhere more actively inclined.

-5 F and -15 wind chill

Enjoy the surf! Wish I was wiping out with you guys!