Friday, January 8, 2010

Still Floating...


5:28 am, just a bit before 5:30, I like waking up a tiny bit before, makes me feel early to start the day. Swim practice was more challenging than usual thanks to a few college girls that joined us. My arms and lungs had to work extra hard to hang on. If the alarm didn't already have me awake chasing feet got me going this morning.

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From swim to bike with nothing but almond butter toast and honey in between. Friday and I still love my bike. The ride was 3 hours of wave watching. Along the Kona Coast you could see white wash and swell taking over the beaches. It was so inviting and the ride zoomed along knowing today I'd get to play, in fact, I was told to "have fun". Balancing sport and life is the goal this year and so far I must admit, it's refreshing...

The winter swell is still amazing, breath taking, and full of power. 3 of our local beaches were closed due to the size of the ocean. It's one of those swells that has more people along the waters edge watching than people actually in the water. All the pros are out and I must confess-it's way more fun to watch a pro surfer doing their thing than watch a pro triathlete doing theirs, maybe it's just because I prefer surf trunks to speedos, or maybe it's because seeing men ride waves, really big ones, is incredible.
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We went to Mahai'ulas, it was one of the beaches open for surf. The only thing about this beach that hurts is the paddle out. To get to the break it's roughly 900 meters of paddling. Then you get there and spend a good chunk of time going under the walls of white wash. My arms thankfully weren't left at the pool this morning. It took nearly 30 minutes to get out in the line up and 18 minutes to get back to shore. I wish I had a word to describe the way it feels to be so far from the shore in walls of water.

This was my view on several occasions this afternoon. I really had no idea if I was swimming up to the surface or down to the ocean bottom a few times. At one point a set rolled in that I am almost positive was the size of a one story house. It wasn't the height, it was the width. When the wave approached you couldn't see the back side or where it ended, it was just a massive wall. Men were letting go of their boards and swimming down as far as they could under the water knowing the white wash was going to be so powerful that it wasn't possible to duck under with the board. I was on the inside and caught the entire wall on my head. Finally making it to the surface of the water for a breath just in time for a second wave to land on me. It was absolutely crazy, scary, awesome, beautiful, all rolled into 30 or so seconds under the ocean.
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That was Friday. This weekend, I'll be on the bike, swimming in the ocean, and running somewhere along the coast. As far as playing in walls of water the size of a house, maybe. Maybe not. The bike is calling me first and I am ready to roll on 2 wheels...on dry land...


Happy weekend...play.
Bree
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10 comments:

t-odd said...

I love reading your posts where all you do is move, move, move. Lately all my activity has been staying in one place. Treadmill or trainer. Keep livin' the life, sista!

Jill Costantino said...

I LOVE this for you!
We are playing today...at the wave pool, not quite like what you got but non the less super fun for the kiddo! So happy for you:)

PocoLocoMan said...

The first sentence of this post says a lot to me about why you have been so successful...

Mama Simmons said...

My husband surfs those big waves and he has been in heaven lately! Said it was going to be good all weekend again too... so I have to hurry home from my ride so he can go surf. It's all about Tag-Team around here. ;)
Glad you're having fun and balancing it all!

Kathleen @ ForgingAhead said...

That wave sounds a little bit scary Bree! Be safe girl. And have a GREAT weekend!

Regina said...

Isn't it dark at that hour? I know it is when I go to swim at the pool that early, but the ocean...in the dark?! Gives me the heebee jeebees!

Great parting shot!

Go Gammie said...

Bree!!! That is awesome that you are getting out in the BIG surf :) I am glad you are getting time to play as well as train. So much fun right now on the beach, glad you can enjoy it :)

Oscarjet said...

Happy week end !
:DDDDDDDDDDDDDD

Ordinarylife said...

The sea looks such and awesome colour!

Hope your weekend was just as good.

Di said...

I like your comment of balancing sport and life. I think I will make that one of my goals...I am going to add family and work into that one as well.
Thanks,
Dianna